Monday, August 20, 2007

08.20 VALLETTA

We toured the capital city today. Valletta is an ancient fortress town overlooking the grand harbour, which is a major port for cargo and cruise ships alike. The city’s main arteries extend from St. John’s Co-Cathedral built by the Knights of Saint John in the 15th century. This ornate edifice houses original works by the rogue artist Micahelangelo Carvaggio. He was exiled to Malta where he produced some of his greatest paintings.

The town, also a major marketplace and shopping district is bustling with tourists. In a startling contrast, antiquated buildings house brand name shops and fast food joints -including McDonalds- are packed with hungry patrons.

On a tight budget and a strictly Mediterranean diet, I opted to avoid the tourist hub and instead explored the residential side streets of Valletta. Just a short walk from the city centre, narrow cobblestone streets seclude residents from busy traffic. Their houses and flats are built skyward, providing a shaded refuge on this, the first day of a forecasted heat wave. It is 35 degrees and I realize that getting lost in the streets of Valletta with only a small bottle of Perrier is like trekking through the middle of the Sahara.

Without straying too far, I was able to find a quiet street way leading down toward to the harbour. A concave stairway carries me along a stretch of jagged houses with colourful doorways and laundry strung from balconies. The asymmetry gives the street a surreal appearance, as though it is a Tim Burton creation, only not so creepy.

It is quaint residence, inducing a slight claustrophobia unless you have an upper level flat allowing a view of the harbour which opens to the sea. I considered this for a moment, but realized that I can’t imagine living in this quaint ancient town. It is so far from the spacious, symmetrical neighbourhood spread that I am used to.
I followed the roads leading up from the harbour to find my way back to the city square. Just enough Perrier to get me back to (pseudo-modern day) reality.